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In this program we wander the Plaza Mayor, ogle the lavish Royal Palace, rub shoulders with aficionados at a bull bar, ponder perplexing art at the Prado Museum, stare down a flamenco dancer, take in the cost of Spain's civil war at the Valley of the Fallen, look deep into Picasso's greatest work — Carlos, a Spaniard who led tours for my groups for more than a decade, and his wife from Seattle, Jennifer, run Letango Tours, offering itineraries within Madrid and beyond, as well as customized tours (whether city, regional, or country-wide) and bookings anywhere in Spain.

This is Europe's third-greatest palace, after Versailles and Vienna's Schönbrunn.

It has arguably the most sumptuous original interior, packed with tourists and royal antiques.

Today's palace is ridiculously super-sized — with 2,800 rooms, tons of luxurious tapestries, a king's ransom of chandeliers, frescoes by Tiepolo, priceless porcelain, and bronze decor covered in gold leaf.

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We returned home on Monday 20th February and we cannot wait until we return to Spain again.This is where seafood lovers savor sizzling plates of tasty little (ah-HEE-yoh, shrimp cooked in oil and garlic) and a glass of sweet red house wine. The Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial is a symbol of power rather than elegance.This 16th-century palace, 30 miles northwest of Madrid, gives us a better feel for the Counter-Reformation and the Inquisition than any other building.Like this morning, I had the intention to meditate for 20 minutes, but I really only made it about 12.And then I said, 'Okay, don't beat yourself up; you did the 12.' I had the intention to work out for an hour, but I only did a half.While these days the royal family lives in a mansion a few miles away, this place still functions as the ceremonial palace (call ahead to make sure it's not closed for a royal function), used for formal state receptions, royal weddings, and tourists' daydreams.